Getting mice out of Mill Park homes and offices

Rice-sized droppings in the cutlery drawer, nibbled bread, a flicker along the skirting. Mice in older houses usually come up from below, and that's where we look.

25 years in businessHomes · Businesses · Industry17 pest servicesGreater Port Elizabeth
House mouse on a wall in Mill Park

Mice in a Mill Park house usually live closer to you than you'd think: inside the kitchen units, in the cavity behind a skirting or under the floorboards. They come and go through tiny gaps that are easy to miss in an older building. Clearing them means finding the gaps, trapping or baiting along the routes they use, and taking away the easy food. Done properly, it's one of the more satisfying pest jobs because the result is clear.

How mice get into older homes

A mouse can squeeze through a hole roughly as wide as a pencil. In houses built decades ago, there are plenty of those. Gaps open between floorboards and skirtings as timber shrinks. Pipes for geysers, washing machines and old plumbing pass through floors and walls with nothing sealing the hole around them. Air bricks lose their mesh. Back doors wear at the bottom and leave a gap at the threshold.

The space under a suspended timber floor connects most of these. Mice use it as a sheltered corridor between rooms, coming up wherever they find a gap, which is why you might see droppings in the kitchen one week and in the study the next.

Where we find them in Mill Park

  • Kitchens. Behind the stove and fridge, in the void under kitchen units and inside the drawer runners.
  • Pantries and built-in cupboards. Older homes often have deep cupboards that aren't emptied for months.
  • Office tearooms and staff kitchens. Converted houses used as offices or practices often have a small kitchen that's busy by day and empty by night, which suits mice well.
  • Guesthouse breakfast areas. Cereal, bread and fruit set out for guests attract mice if anything is left overnight.
  • Garages and storerooms. Bird seed, dog food and boxes of stored items.

Signs of mice

  • Small, dark droppings the size of a rice grain, often in drawers and along shelves
  • Gnawed corners on food packets, especially bread, cereal and pet food
  • Light, quick scratching in walls or under the floor at night
  • A distinct musky smell in cupboards
  • Small nests of shredded paper or fabric in quiet corners

Bigger droppings and heavier noises in the roof are more likely rats. See our page on rats in Mill Park roofs if that sounds like your problem.

How we clear them

  1. Inspection. We look for droppings, gnaw marks and runways to see where mice are travelling and nesting, and check skirtings, pipe entries, air bricks and door thresholds.
  2. Traps and stations. Inside the house we often rely on traps, placed along walls where mice actually run, so nothing dies in a wall cavity. Lockable, tamper-resistant bait stations go outside and in voids where they're safe from children and pets.
  3. Proofing advice. A list of gaps to close, such as around pipes, under doors and at broken air bricks. Steel wool packed into a hole and sealed over works far better than filler alone, because mice chew through filler.
  4. Follow-up to check traps and confirm the droppings have stopped.

A tip for older Mill Park kitchens

Pull out the kick plate under your kitchen units and look underneath with a torch. In older kitchens this hidden void is often open to the floor or wall behind, and it's where mice live, collect food and leave most of their droppings. Clearing it out and closing the gap at the back removes their favourite hiding place.

What people get wrong

Using peanut butter traps in the middle of the kitchen floor. Mice don't cross open spaces if they can help it; they run along walls. Traps placed flush against the wall, at right angles to it, catch far more. And one trap isn't enough. If you've seen one mouse, set several.

What does it cost?

It depends on how many mice there are, how big the house or office is, and how many gaps need proofing. Honestly, a single mouse in a small kitchen can often be dealt with using a few good snap traps from a hardware store, set correctly against the wall. When droppings keep appearing, when they're in several rooms, or when it's a business that can't risk it, a professional treatment with proofing is the better route. Businesses usually go onto scheduled monitoring.

Find out more on mouse control throughout Port Elizabeth, in our guide to house mice, or see how we tackle mice in Newton Park homes and businesses. Our Mill Park overview covers the suburb's other common pests.

Call 087 012 5550, or WhatsApp us a photo of the droppings and we'll tell you whether it's mice or rats.

Questions we get asked

How do mice get into a house with closed doors?

Through gaps you'd barely notice: around pipes, between floorboards and skirtings, under worn doors and through broken air bricks. A pencil-width gap is enough.

Why do you use traps indoors instead of poison?

So the mouse doesn't die inside a wall or under the floor where you can't reach it. Bait goes in lockable stations outside and in safe voids.

Can mice damage my house?

Yes. They gnaw wiring, insulation and stored items, and contaminate food and surfaces with droppings and urine.

Will one mouse turn into many?

Quite quickly if left alone. Mice breed fast, so it's worth acting as soon as you see droppings.

Do you treat mice in offices and practices?

Yes. We treat converted homes used as offices, consulting rooms and guesthouses, and can set up scheduled monitoring.

What should I use to block mouse holes?

Pack the hole with steel wool and seal over it, or use metal mesh. Mice chew through foam and filler on their own.